Get a heavy grade file since the file should be used for tough jobs that the sandpaper cannot tackle. Also, do not forget to have some clean, lint-free rags around. If you get any lint in your wax, your ski tuning will not go so well.
I. SKI INSPECTION A. Evaluate the skis 1. Are they flat, convex, or concave? A true bar will help determine this. 2. Check for gouges or scratches. II. CLEANING A. Begin with damp paper towel and wipe ski clean. B. Remove wax and grit with Ski base cleaner. Let dry approximately 20 min C. Do not clean the ski with a scraper; it can force grit particles into the base material. D. Be sure nicks and gouges are clean of wax and grit. III. BASE REPAIR A. Nicks scratches and surface gouges can be easily repaired with P-Tex. B. More Serious gouges should be done with the proper equipment. P-Tex gun or plastic welder or by patching. This should be handled by a repair shop or ski shop. IV. BASE EDGE SHARPENING AND FINISHING A. Go over bottom edge with file to put a 1,2, or 3-degree bevel on base edge 1. 0°-1° = Slalom or Recreation 2. 1°-2° = Giant Slalom and downhill 3. 2°-3° = Downhill, speed skiing and Ballet. B. Use a 3°sleeve over tips and tails instead of rounding off edges. In Tool Tips: Precision Tuning Guide at FKtools-us.com they say: - Hard pack or ice: bottom flat, side 1 deg bevel - Soft snow; bottom 1 deg. side 90 deg. - Torsionally stiff or tough turning ski: bevel the base - Bevel both the base and side edges to the same angle to reposition your 90° edge for smoother easier turns plus a good biting edge. V. SIDE EDGE SHARPENING A. Gives you the ability to grip and hold on firm show conditions Recreational skier 90° B. If you bevel side edges you can increase gripping power. VI. EDGE FINISHING OF DEBURRING A. Edges need to be de-burred before waxing. We de-burr because de-burring removes the thread of steel that is produced right on the comer of the edge that makes it feel excessively sharp. A coarse DIAMOND file is used to polish and remove case hardened burrs and will help restore the factory finish AFTER your file tune. VII. DULL TIPS AND TAILS VIII. WAXING A. Waxing enables the skis to glide and turn more easily as well as protect them from damage and wear. Source: The Basics Of Ski Tuning (Word Doc) at NAVA Ski Club __________________________________Understanding Tip/Tail Dulling:
Some tuners use rules of thumb such as: "6 inches back from the tip end and 2 inches back from the tail end". Given the variety in ski designs from one manufacturer to another these rules are obviously meaningless because they ignore the intent of dulling. Edge dulling should extend over the portion of the tip and tail edges that are not intended to influence turning. If it extends further, it becomes detuning rather than just dulling, an important distinction!
To find the dulling zone on YOUR skis:
Tognar Ski Snowboard Edge Polishing Deburring Tips:
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