Don's Home Recreation Rock Climbing Rescue
 
Rock Rescue at Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, Canmore, Alberta, Canada
Equipment List
  • Harness, whatever you use
  • Helmet (CE approved climbing helmet)
  • Rock shoes or climbing boots
  • Long tape sling (3 meter)
  • Long prussic (suggested 7mm diameter, 5 m in length)
  • 1 short prussic (1 meter)
  • 1 munter carabiner (pear shaped or HMS) e.g. Petzl Attache aluminum; Steel is more wear resistant and faster (Mad Rock Ultra Tech HMS, Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner)
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • 2 non-locking carabiners (same shape & size)
  • Belay device, whatever you use
  • Figure eight or rappel device of your choice. Some belay devices work for rappelling also.
  • Rescue toys (tibloc, ropeman or ascenders)
  • Rock gear (one rack of mixed gear per two people)
  • Quick draws or tape slings with carabiners

Ascender/Belay compatibility - Rope sizes:
ATC Belay Device - 8 mm - 11 mm
ATC Guide Belay Device - 7.7 - 11 mm
Ropeman MK 2 Ascender 8.5 - 11 mm
5/16 in = 8-9 mm, 3/8 in = 9.5-10 mm, 7/16 in. = 11-11.5 mm
Static Rope - non stretching 9-13 mm - Rappelling, rescue and big-wall ascending.
Half-rope - 8-9 mm
New England Ropes See: How to choose a climbing rope at REI

Terms:

  • CE - Conformité Européene. CE Marking on a product is a manufacturer's declaration that the product complies with the essential requirements of the relevant European health, safety and environmental protection legislation.
  • CMC Rescue Inc. - Rescue equipment and training
  • OSHA's 1910.146 - Occupational Safety and Health Administration "Permit-Required Confined Space standard". Primarily about hazardous materials, but also contains standards for lifelines, harnesses, and mechanical hoist systems.
  • NFPA 1983 - National Fire Protection Association - 1983 Standard on Fire Service Life Safety Rope, Harnesses, and Hardware.
  • HMS carabiner - Pear shaped carabiner. From something like "Halbmastwurfsicherung" Translated from German to English as "Half of a Clove Hitch".
Hauling Systems:

In Rescue Technician - Operational Readiness For Rescue Providers they recommend against using mechanical rope grabs (ascenders) in place of prusik knots, because they can cause rope damage or desheathing with loads over 1,000 lbs.

They also recommend special rescue pulleys which are stronger than hauling pulleys.
In an emergency a DMM Revolver biner is better than an emergency pulley.

See Also: Z-Pulley Anti-Slip Hauling System

Emergency Harness from webbing at: AnimatedKnots.com | trails.com/

Lnks:
Ropes
Rescue Equipment at RockClimbing.com
RescueDynamics.ca
Innovative Accesss Rescue Gear and Training
CMC Rescue Inc.
Rock Rescue Academy Part 2: Learning To Ascend & Rig Anchors
Chapter 4 Technical Rescue Equipment and Techniques
Pre-rigged Rope Rescue Systems
Notes from BAMRU Training on Basic Vertical Rescue

last updated 6 Dec 2009