Wood Burning Stove Maintenance

The main issue with word burning stoves is creosote build-up. Creosote build up is normal and can be aggrieved by reduced air flow causing the gasses in the chimney to cool and condence in the chimney which in turn causes more reduced air flow.
Reduced airflow can be cause by a damper restricting air flow and is a positive feedback, with creosote buildup reducing air flow.
Signs:
Increased odor smelling more like a campfire.

Results:

Closed off the chimney filling your house with smoke.
Carbon Monoxide poisoning from reduced ability to vent.
Reduced indoor air quality with fine particles that can irritate the respiratory system.
Cause a chimney fire
Get wet and create sulfuric acid which can corrode stainless steel, if not used over a rainy season.

Cleaning Interval:
The average wood burning stove used correctly needs cleaning after 3 or 4 cords.
Our cabin a Lake Tahoe which is used about 1/2 to 1/3 of the time, uses about 1/2 cord per year.
Many recommend and some insurance companies require yearly cleanings.

How to test:
Open the door and if some smoke comes out it probably needs cleaning.
If you see a lot of buildup on the chimney cap it needs cleaning.

Factors affecting cleaning interval:

Unseasoned wood - (moisture content > 10-20%)
A chimney with a more un-insulated outside exposure will cool off faster causing more creosote condensation.
Bends in the chimney
Burning slowly so there is less flow in the chimney giving the creosote more time to condense.
Generally speaking, woods high in resin content (pine, spruce, fir) are best mixed with a harder woods to prevent build up of deposits of creosote in the chimney.

See Firewood

See: How to know if you need a chimney cleaning

Technical Information:
Fires burn at about 800°
Smoke condenses and forms creosote at 284 °
Creosote burns at 451°

Stages of Creosote:
Stage 1 (First Degree):
This is the initial stage, often appearing as a loose, dusty soot. It's relatively easy to remove with a standard chimney brush.
Stage 2 (Second Degree):
This stage involves a more hardened, flaky, and tar-like buildup. It's more difficult to remove than stage 1 and may require specialized tools.
Stage 3 (Third Degree):
This is the most dangerous stage, characterized by a hard, shiny, glaze-like coating on the chimney walls. It's extremely difficult to remove and poses a high risk of chimney fires.

How to clean:

Required Tools and Materials
To clean your chimney, you’ll need the following tools:

Chimney brush sized to fit your flue
Rutland Chimney Sweep 8 in. Round Oil Tempered Chimney Brush ACE
Extension rods for the brush
Shop vacuum with a fine dust filter
Drop cloths or tarps
Protective gear (goggles, dust mask, gloves)
Flashlight
Ladder tall enough to safely access your roof
An endoscope camera with light.