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In the United States, there are approximately 700 different ant species. Twenty-five of these species are considered to be household pests.
Insecticides are only one of the tools available for control of ants, and not always the best or most important. Ant biology should be considered when deciding whether or not to use insecticides. For example, insecticides are often not effective against mound ants because it often takes foraging ants several days to return to the nests. Consult your regional National Park Service Integrated Pest Management coordinator for information on using pesticides as part of an ant management program.
The best baits for ants are those whose toxicant kills ants slowly. In this way, worker ants live long enough to take the baits back to the nest and feed it to the colony and queen. A number of baits are now available. Some are prepackaged in child-resistant bait stations. Some are gels or pastes designed to be placed in small pea-shaped amounts throughout an area. Some products (such as boric acid) are designed to be mixed with a food. Bait products typically will work against certain species of ants but not against others, so it is important to check the label to make sure the ant you wish to control is listed.
Most retail products are liquid or granular formulations containing hydramethylnon*, sulfluramid, abamectin, or boric acid.
Ant baits may not work as well with carpenter ants as the other species mentioned
Insect growth regulators (IGRs)
These are available in bait form for some ant species. Insect growth regulators inhibit normal development of insects. They are slow-acting because they stop the next generation from developing rather than killing the current generation. A recent study comparing the insect growth regulator fenoxycarb to a commercial bait found that the growth regulator was more effective than the bait in eliminating Pharaoh ants. This is most likely because the bait kills ants too quickly to be effectively distributed throughout the colony (Williams and Vail 1994). Crazy ants do not seem to respond well to bait, and baits may be slow-acting against field ants since they often stay away from the nest for several days.
Liquid and aerosol insecticides
Nearly all of the insecticides labeled for use against cockroaches are also labeled for use against ants. These insecticides are most effective when used to treat actual nest sites. Insecticides are less effective, but still may provide acceptable results when used to treat inside cracks and crevices used by ants in and around infested sites. They are least effective, as well as offering the highest potential of human exposure, when they are simply applied to sites where activity has been observed.
For certain ground-nesting ants that dig deep nests outdoors, a soil drench or mound drench can be effective where other treatments are not. As its name implies, a soil drench consists of applying enough insecticide dilution directly to a mound or nest so that the entire nest is drenched.
Dusts may also be used on occasion for ant control if they are used lightly or directed into nests. In large amounts, dusts tend to repel ants. But they have the advantage of floating back through wall voids to reach nests that may not be accessible with other formulations.
Granules are rarely used in household ant control. They may be useful, however, when a lawn or field is heavily infested with many colonies of a shallow, ground- nesting species of ant.
Controlled release technology provides longer-lasting residual control indoors or outdoors.
Source: Ants at www.greensmiths.com
Termite or carpenter Ant
Termites are light-colored, have no waist constriction, have straight antennae and, if present, wings are of equal length. They avoid light and are rarely seen outside of their colony.
Carpenter ants have dark-colored bodies, narrow waists, elbowed (bent) antennae. Carpenter ants are very common and are frequently seen in the open.
Carpenter ant casts:
Nests are often concealed in wall voids, ceilings, subfloors, attics, or hollow doors. It is usually necessary for a professional pest control applicator to drill small (about 1/8 inch) holes and apply an insecticide into the nest area. It is best to determine the nest's location as specifically as possible. Control should not be applied randomly through the home. There are NO insecticides available to the public that are labeled for this type of application.
If it is difficult to locate the nest, an insecticidal dust can be applied into wall voids through electrical outlets. (Note: Some liquid insecticides should NOT be applied in electrical boxes.) Carpenter ants commonly travel along electrical wiring and are likely to encounter the insecticides. This method works more slowly than a direct treatment into the nest. Boric acid is available to home dwellers to treat wall voids through electrical outlets. CAUTION: Use extreme care around electrical wiring and take all necessary steps to avoid accidental electric shocks.
If the nest cannot be located, baits may be an effective alternative.
See more at the above web site.
Ant Control at U. Nebr., they says:
Carpenter ants DO NOT eat wood. They remove wood as they create galleries and tunnels.
The best way to control carpenter ants that inhabit a dwelling is to find the nest and destroy it. Insecticide sprays inside the home will kill some of the worker ants, but unless the entire nest is treated, the queen will continue to produce additional members of the colony. Locating a nest can be difficult because nests may be in locations within the walls or roof rafters.
Carpenter ants are most active in the evening hours foraging for all kinds of food, both inside the house and outside. By following ants, you may be able to tell where the nest is. Because carpenter ants keep the tunnelled galleries very clean and push the sawdust and dead insect parts out small holes in the wood, a small, fresh pile of sawdust under the nest timber is the usual sign of an active carpenter ant nest. Once a nest is found, treatment is usually easy with either an insecticide dust or spray. Injection of insecticide into wall voids or the nest itself may be necessary to insure complete control.
To prevent further carpenter ant infestations, trim all trees and bushes so branches do not touch the house and correct moisture problems such as leaky roofs and plumbing. Paint and/or seal exposed wood construction before it becomes wet. Replace previously ant-infested wood, rotted, or water-damaged wooden parts of the structure and eliminate wood/soil contacts. Remove dead stumps on the property and store firewood off the ground and away from the structure.
Carpenter Ant Control and Treatments at CarpenterAnts.com says:
Carpenter Ant Products:
General Ant Products:
At JustAnswer.com someone reported their 18 lb. dog ate a Raid and bait,