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P0422 & P0432 (Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold)
I got this code on a 2001 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) and it started coming on and off by itself, then went away altogether.
A bad cat could probably damage the rear O2 sensor.
About Catalytic Converters:
A three-way catalytic converter has three simultaneous tasks:
See: Exhaust System
Problem could be the canister control valve (CCV), an oxygen sensor, or catalytic converter
The most common fix for this problem is to simply replace the Catalytic Converter. There is the off chance the rear O2 Sensor is failing to read correctly.
It might be a bad catalytic converter (cat), but be sure everything else is good before spending money on that. Plugs, wires and O2 sensors should be checked. A cloged fuel filter.
A bad O2 sensor should give an error code P0130-P0167
A variety of conditions may cause the catalyst to overheat (heat deactivation) and potentially to melt down. Some factors that can cause this are:
I had a friend with a 1999 VW who got a P0422. The garage said the engine was running lean and there was an oil leak and to use high octane gas, which solved the problem.
A leak upstream of the cat is going to lean out the mixture, making the car run richer than it should, which might be giving a false indication (but probably not).
Causes of converter failures: Fouling, clogging, melt-down and breakage of the ceramic substrate inside a converter are common conditions that can cause problems. Sometimes an indication that a converter is clogged is that you don't go any faster when you push the gas pedal down. Plugging is usually the end result of a melt-down, which occurs because the converter gets too hot. This happens because the engine is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust. The excess fuel lights off inside the converter and sends temperatures soaring. If it gets hot enough, the ceramic substrate that carries the catalyst melts. The unburned fuel may be getting into the exhaust because of a bad spark plug or valve, but an overly rich air/fuel mixture is another possibility. In older carbureted engines, a heavy or misadjusted carburetor float may be the underlying cause. But on newer engines with "feedback" carburetion or electronic fuel injection, the engine may not be going into "closed loop" (the normal mode where the computer regulates the air/fuel mixture to minimize emissions). A bad oxygen sensor or coolant sensor may be giving the computer bogus information. A sluggish or dead O2 sensor will make the computer think the exhaust is running lean, so the computer will try to compensate by making the fuel mixture rich. A coolant sensor that always indicates a cold engine will also keep the system in open loop, which means a steady diet of excess fuel. But it might not be the sensor's fault. A thermostat that's stuck open or is too cold for the application can prevent the engine from reaching its normal operating temperature. So if your converter has failed and needs to be replaced, the engine should be diagnosed for any underlying problems before the new converter is installed. Another cause of converter clogging and contamination is excessive oil consumption. Worn valve guides or seals can allow oil to be sucked into the engine's combustion chambers. The same goes for worn or damaged rings or cylinders. Oil can form a great deal of carbon, and metals present in the oil can contaminate the catalyst. A compression check or leak-down test will tell you if the rings are leaking, while a fluttering vacuum gauge needle will help you identify worn valve guides.
Diagnostic proceedure for Kia:
If Front O2 Sensor voltages are consistently high, or freeze frame data shows an excessively high negative long fuel trim, check fuel pressures and injectors.
If Front O2 Sensor voltages are consistently low, or freeze frame data
shows an excessively high positive long fuel trim, check fuel pressures and injectors (same as above)
Q: I continue to get a P0422 code. The engine runs great. I just replaced during a tune up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor and both O2 sensors. I also replaced the catalytic converter and exhaust. The catalytic converter came from a place called Autohaus AZ and was smaller but otherwise similar to the original. The exhaust is a stainless performance exhaust with a larger diameter than the original.
A: have you checked the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor? ANy exhaust leaks ahead of the 02 sensor or converter, like say the manifold?
Q: My car lost power about a week ago, I could not get it going above 40m/h. Took it to the mechanic who said that the catalytic converter and the "j pipe"? was completely shot. Gave me a quote for over $4000 to repair which effectively writes off the car (2000 Hunday Sonata).
A: $4000 seems a little high. Shop around for price for the repairs you need. Most aftermarket converters don't compare well in quality or effectiveness to the factory converters, but they're also typically much less expensive.
Just as a check, I ran the numbers to check the dealer list price for the converters and front pipe (parts only) for a 2000 Sonata four cylinder and came up with this:
Front converter: $636.37 Front pipe and rear converter: $820 or $1202, depending on which emissions system you have.
if you have less than 80,000 miles on the car, the converter should be covered under warranty. I believe it is not legal to install an aftermarket converter while the car is still within the warranty period.